As part of “Adventures Between Two Places”, NY to Costa Rica (most specifically me, Sue) had the opportunity to travel to Mexico City during Thanksgiving of 2018. I know some people might think, “how could you travel away during Thanksgiving? Won’t you miss out on the turkey?”
Well, I’m not a huge fan of turkey anyway–what I really missed was the pumpkin pie. Traveling at Thanksgiving is a unique experience. Not only is it cheaper, but some airports are less crowded. Albany was very quiet. Newark, not so much.
I thought it was important to share this experience since there are so many misconceptions in the media about Mexico. I was mystified with the questions people asked me when I got back. Was it safe to travel to Mexico? Did I see any violence? Was I scared? Were people armed?
Keep in mind, my travels were to the capital, Mexico City, otherwise known as CDMX. I did not travel near the border with the United States or any so-called hot zones, so this piece deals with CDMX only.
Arriving at Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport
This was my second arrival at Benito Juarez International Airport in Mexico City. The first time I was on route to Costa Rica and couldn’t get off the plane. This time I was in Mexico to stay.
Both times I flew into Mexico City were night flights, and the experience is nothing short of SPECTACULAR. It has to be, without a doubt, one of the prettiest landings ever. Unless you’ve flown into CDMX, you have no idea of the magnitude of this city. It spreads out in every direction, like a sea of lights; some lights looked like huge rows going upward into the sky, oddly disconnected and ethereal, appearing to be floating in midair. I still don’t know what these lights were (if you do, please leave a comment below).
From the air, it looked like there was traffic everywhere. Not surprising in this city of over eight million inhabitants.
After landing, I was expecting the usual back-up of people in line for immigration that San Jose, Costa Rica gets, but nothing of the sort! Maybe it was the hour, but I was pleasantly surprised to find I was second in line and after quickly going through customs, I was off to the baggage claim. The baggage claim in my area (I flew United) was no bigger than the baggage claim back in Albany, NY.
The main area of the airport was a long, long corridor marked by numbers, according to gates. There is decent WIFI in the baggage area and inside, but the further up the corridor you go, the more it disappears. I did not buy a Mexican SIM card on this trip, as I have in Costa Rica.
At the far end of this long hallway, there are kiosks for ordering taxis. All you do is tell them where you’re going, pay and they come to get you. It couldn’t be easier!
Arriving in Downtown CDMX
The ride from the airport wasn’t more than a half hour. Despite the amount of traffic I saw from the air, things moved along quickly and easily. It was late at night, and I tried to see all I could during the ride, but most of that excitement would have to wait until the next morning.
Our hotel accommodations were at the Hotel Marlowe, which I highly recommend. It’s in the perfect location, close to great shopping, restaurants and culture. The rooms are very nice and the staff bent over backwards to make sure our stay was terrific.
*As a side note, when looking at prices in Mexico, be aware that Mexican pesos also use a $ sign.
Zocalo and Calle Madero
On our first full day in Mexico City, it was time to see Zocalo, or the Plaza de la Constitucion. I was totally excited about seeing that giant flag I’d seen so many pictures of and the rest would all be new to me.
Getting there was easy by Calle Madero. Calle Madero is a pedestrian street (since 2009) that runs from Palacio de Bellas Artes near the Torre Latinoamericana all the way to Zocalo. It’s a pretty yellow-tiled road where you pass lots of stores, some frighteningly out of place (think Broadway in Manhattan) restaurants, churches and historical buildings.
This street is alive with shoppers, sightseers and people on their way to work.
At the end of Calle Madero, you come out to Zocalo and wow, what a sight! The enormous Mexican flag majestically floating in the wind will take your breath away. You’ll also see the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral (sinking into the earth just a tad), as well as artisans, dancers and spiritual cleansings taking place.
Zocalo is used for many gatherings and events, and is the largest plaza in Latin America.
Tacos in Mexico City
Okay, I know it sounds cliche, but what I really wanted in Mexico were tacos, tacos and more tacos! The reason I felt so adamant about having tacos, is because I wanted REAL MEXICAN tacos. Back home there’s a few good Mexican restaurants, but now I was in Mexico and I wanted the real deal! And the real deal did not disappoint!
My very first Mexican tacos were at Taqueria El Caifan, across the street from Alameda Central (the park next to Bellas Artes). This place is not only famous for tacos, but also huaraches (corn dough fried and topped with beans and more), carnitas, soups and all sorts of other goodies. However, TACOS were the order of the day!
I could have eaten these tacos all day long, and I’m not kidding. This was my first experience ordering Tacos al Pastor. I was surprised that they’re made from shaved meat on a spit just like the schwarma I’ve seen in Middle Eastern restaurants! They’re served on a corn tortilla with cilantro and pineapple. Simple, but oh my…so, so good, and so addictive!
They kept us well-replenished on nachos, sauces, dips and lime wedges and of course, Mexican Coca-Cola, yum! This would certainly not be the last Tacos al Pastor that I would order while in Mexico.
Rocking Out in El Chopo
Who knew that the Mexican punk rock scene was so intense? Not me, but all I can say is wow! This place is wicked cool.
Whether you call it El Chopo, Tianguis Cultural El Chopo, or just that badass punk rock flea market…if you love metal, punk, goth or all of the above, don’t miss this place.
El Chopo, located on Calle Juan Aldama, Buenavista, is one ginormous punk rock, metal and goth paradise. Open from approximately 10-5 on Saturdays, you’ll find massive quantities of memorabilia, discs, LP’s, books, shirts and rare & collectible items. Stall after stall is filled with rock overload, plus all the stuff that goes with it like body jewelry and lingerie to fulfill your darkest desires. Plus, there’s musicians playing live music.
I love music but I’m certainly no expert on this genre. A lot of the artists I’d never heard of, but that’s the glory of it. It delves into the obscure. In other words, everything good your head-banging little heart could want. You’ll end up with a lot of new music to explore after you leave. It’s also a great place to people-watch, and grab yourself some goodies, even if they’re not music-related. I ended up with a massively cool black Aztec calendar from El Chopo.
Dinner in Coyoacan
Coyoacan is the birthplace (and final resting place) of Frida Kahlo.
It’s also a vibrant and colorful part of Mexico City.
We spent one evening in Coyoacan and I was immediately captivated. It was a Saturday evening and people were everywhere. The vibes in the air automatically put you in a happy place. We started with dinner at Pepe Coyote’s, Avenida Miguel Hidalgo 297, for more tacos! I’m serious when I say I can’t get enough tacos al pastor. Staff was great and the food was, too. It’s a super place for eating and conversation, and they keep you loaded out with food and drinks.
After dinner we moseyed around town and visited the Mercado Artisanal. It was an unbelievable mixture of artisan delights and a wonderful place to buy colorful calaveras (skulls), jewelry, paintings and almost anything you could want. The intensity of colors is not only a feast for the eyes, but profoundly positive on the emotions.
After shopping, it was time for something sweet and we found ourselves at a place I like to call Churro Corner…actually called Churros Jordan. Wow! I have never seen so many people beckoning you for your churro business! Who knew that churros came in so many flavors? You can order churros with chocolate, strawberry, Nutella, cream cheese, apple, condensed milk, pineapple and many, many more. You MUST have one or two (or more!)
Coyoacan was simply amazing and alive, and I can’t wait to go back.
The Zoo at Chapultepec Park CDMX
If you’ve never heard of Chapultepec Park in Mexico City, it’s time to get educated. This is probably one of the most fantastic parks on the planet. Chapultepec Park is an incredible 1,695 acres and is larger than New York’s Central Park. It also boasts a lake, a castle, zoo, forest and several museums.
We decided to go to the zoo and attempt to see the pandas!
Walking through the park is a wonderful experience and it’s such a family-oriented one. It’s also impossible to go hungry at this park, there are food vendors everywhere selling everything from traditional Mexican food, to drinks, to snacks. You can also buy cotton candy and this intriguing colorful, glass-like candy that’s spread onto plastic—sort of like a giant see-through fruit roll-up.
The Chapultepec Zoo is open from 9-4:30. You’ll find that admission is free, but you will need to go through security. Inside, there are maps to the zoo and bathrooms. The zoo houses a fantastic amount of animals. From rhinos to hippos to tigers and everything in between. There are dozens of species of monkeys, wild cats, a giant aviary and of course the pandas. The lemur display is so much fun if you’ve never seen a lemur which I never had! They’re so adorable!
I really wanted to see a sloth, and there was one sloth display but they were behind glass and sleeping when I was there (in total sloth-fashion).
The zoo and park is great for all ages. It offers a refreshing switch from the city and will leave you with fabulous memories.
The Teotihuacan Pyramids
We were lucky enough to have a friend drive us to see the Pyramids of Teotihuacan, the Mesoamerican pyramids only about an hour (or more if there’s traffic) from Mexico City. Tourists can also sign up for tours if their hotel offers it, or take a bus from the Autobuses del Norte station which you can get to by taxi or metro.
Our drive to the pyramids took a little over an hour and we chose to go later in the day.
The Pyramids of Teotihuacan feature the Pyramid of the Sun—the third largest pyramid in the world! You’ll also see the Pyramid of the Moon along with other temples and unearthed pyramids all connected via Avenue of the Dead.
Entrance is $75 pesos, just shy of $4.00, an unbelievable steal for all you get to see.
My first look at the pyramids proved to be an emotional experience for me. I’m not sure why I teared up, but I did. They’re very majestic, and there’s so much history.
Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun was definitely the highlight of the day. What looked like a relatively easy (but a long climb) was completely deceiving. As you start your ascent, it certainly looks a lot steeper than it does from the ground! We were winded and hadn’t even made it halfway. My fear of heights began to kick in and I froze up a couple of times. Again, my perception was worse than reality, as proven by smaller kids that passed me by. Was I going to let those kids show me up? Hell yes I was, I was terrified. I finished my climb by sheer willpower to not look like a total ass.
At long last, we reached the top, and aaahhhh….the view was so worth it! Mexico spread out before us in all directions.
The descent turned out to be much easier than I had imagined. In the center of the staircase, there is a cable to facilitate matters.
Arriving back at the base with wobbly legs, you’ll pass by many artisan stalls, selling their wares. Hand-carved whistles seemed to be the hot purchase the day we were there.
The Pyramids of Teotihuacan is a once in a lifetime trip. If you get a chance to go, do it. Make sure to give yourself a few hours at the site to fully enjoy everything that it has to offer. They’re open daily from 9-5. Make sure you bring a hat and sunscreen, and wear sturdy sneakers or hiking boots that won’t slide.
Walmart in Mexico City
Um, Walmart? You didn’t. Yes…yes I did. I went to Walmart in Mexico City. Sure I did! Come on, you’ve GOT to go to at least compare if you’re there.
And here’s what I found:
Walmart in Mexico City is super cool! Not only was it the biggest Walmart I’ve even been in, but it was loaded with awesome stuff! Hell, they even sold motor scooters in there!
Like Walmart in Costa Rica, it’s a great spot to buy all the local goodies you want to bring home. There was an entire aisle dedicated to Mexican candy which, if you’ve ever been to Mexico, you know is hot stuff! Literally! Hot and spicy candy! I’m not sure how these kids don’t have ulcers, but these candies really make perfect gifts. I also found a marvelous variety of packaged dried peppers and tons of hot chili sauce.
My only regret is that we didn’t get to stay longer, but alas…on the next trip!
Leaving Mexico City
It was hard to believe my five days in Mexico City had come to an end. It was time to leave. After saying goodbye at the hotel, it was time to face the lines and the security that are an inevitable part of international travel.
My taxi ride back to the airport was smooth despite the morning hour and I had a pleasant talk with my cab driver. Our conversation turned to politics and I asked him how he felt about our current administration and all the rhetoric surrounding talk of a new border wall. He smiled and brushed it off. He told me it pretty much is what it is, and it has no real bearing on everyday life. The people of his country would continue to treat us with respect and do whatever they could to make guests feel at home in their country. I found his opinion to be very special, and that’s why I wanted to share.
Finally I was at the airport and made my way through security and off to my gate.
I decided it was time for a coffee and soon after spotted a Starbucks. I usually avoid Starbucks while traveling in lieu of something more local, but Starbucks in Mexico was offering drinks I had never seen in the US. Hmm, chestnut praline frappuccino…cranberry mocha blanco and dark cherry mocha! I quickly got in line to try the dark cherry mocha. We wouldn’t get that flavor back in New York until several weeks later (and the other two flavors never did make it).
I did a little airport exploring as I like to do, and soon came back to my gate as boarding time grew close. I was surprised that our flight had been delayed. In another half hour they delayed it for five hours. At this point, they gave passengers the choice to re-book or wait it out. I decided to wait it out, knowing full well it would probably cause a problem for my next flight. Soon after, the inevitable. The flight had been cancelled.
Mexico City wasn’t letting me go.
After a very stressful time getting my luggage back and re-booking, I was headed back to the hotel. I couldn’t help but smile to myself.
Back in Mexico City and Sipping Tequila at Garibaldi
By all rights, I should have been in Newark, New Jersey but I wasn’t. I was back in Mexico City for one more night, and I couldn’t have been happier! Instead of eating airport food back in the cold Northeast, I was sipping tequila at Garibaldi and later having an awesome meal with very special people. Unexpected moments like this are simply the best.
I would deal with the airport tomorrow.
Garibaldi Plaza is located on Eje Central Lazaro Cardenas, about five blocks north of Bellas Artes. It’s a large plaza with a restaurant and outdoor dining, features the Tequila and Mezcal Museum, and of course impressive Mariachis everywhere. Trying different tequilas outside is part of the fun and this place is usually quite busy. Inside, you’ll find a remarkably nice shop and a lot of very sleek tequila bottles. Garibaldi has gotten a bad rap supposedly because of the neighborhood it’s in, but like anywhere if you travel in groups and are aware of your surroundings you should be good to go.
After sipping our tequila and mezcal we ventured into Mercado San Camilito, a sort of “food mall”, filled with bright and colorful side-by-side restaurants. We finally chose one and shared a wonderful meal. More tacos al pastor for me, please! And of course, an ice-cold Coke. Served with our meal, as all other other meals in Mexico, they brought us bowls full of different flavored hot sauces varying in intensity, guacamole, limes and cilantro.
It was a magical night, a gift of one extra evening in Mexico City.
Leaving Mexico–Seriously, This Time
Finally for real my time in Mexico City had come to an end. The next morning it was back to the airport and through security all over again. This time my plane did leave although due to schedule changes, I barely made it. Like a baseball player sliding into home base and a call to action over the loudspeaker, that’s how I arrived at my gate.
Mexico and all the people I met there left a loving mark on my heart. Mexico is so full of electrifying color, music and flavor it beckons you back for more.
The food was heavenly, from all the tacos al pastor that I ate, the hot sauces I tried, the guacamole, the pozole, and of course the tequila. I know I only scratched the surface of Mexican cuisine and there’s so much left to explore.
If you have ever thought about going to Mexico, I wholeheartedly encourage you to do so. Go, learn and be enchanted.
And as always, tell everyone what you learn.