Cartago’s Municipal Market

The Municipal Market in Cartago, Costa Rica is one my favorite places on Earth.

Why, out of all the places on the planet would this be a favorite?

Probably because it took hold of me at 16-years old and never let go.

Let me explain.

Meeting Cartago’s Marketplace for the Very First Time

I was an exchange student in Costa Rica during 1984.

I was placed in Cartago, but before arriving there, we had an orientation just outside Alajuela, near the Juan Santamaria Airport. On our very first tour of a Costa Rican city, I remember seeing the marketplace. We didn’t spend a lot of time there, only quickly walked through, but I was instantly captivated and bookmarked the place in the back of my mind.

When I arrived in Cartago, I hadn’t thought of it again until I learned that my exchange student dad (Papi) went to the marketplace every Saturday morning.

I decided I wanted to tag along with Papi (met with laughter from my new siblings) and so began a beautiful relationship with the Mercado Municipal de Cartago.

My first visit to the market could only be described as “like Christmas”.

And a great Christmas at that.

There were so many new things I’d never seen before, so many colors, and so many smells that were excitedly new to me.

It was gloriously overwhelming.

El Mercado Municipal de Cartago

Cartago’s Municipal Marketplace is located right in the very busy heart of Cartago, on Avenida 1 between Calles 2 and 4.

It’s in a large square shape (taking up an entire city block) and is set up in two different sections. There’s an outside section all along the perimeter, and an interior section made up of a grid of walkways.

The busiest shopping days are Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays when the outside spaces fill to the brim with vendors; that’s when things really get cooking. The inside of the mercado is open the rest of the week as well.

The outside perimeter is reserved for produce. Kiosks and stands are loaded to capacity with every type of fruit and vegetable you can imagine. It’s set up in such a way that the produce will eventually repeat itself all around the building, and since everyone has their favorite vendors, there’s enough room to accommodate hundreds of weekend shoppers all wanting to buy the same items.

Papi’s market day was Saturday morning, inarguably the busiest day and time to shop at the market.

The Outside of Cartago’s Market

If you come to market on a Friday or Saturday, you’ll see the full scope of what the market has to offer.

Yes, there will be a lot of people.

And yes, it’s totally worth it.

You can enter the marketplace from any point, so jump on in!

The first time I walked through the market, we entered through the northwestern corner in back. Papi helped me navigate the crowd. With him, he brought a large, rectangular straw bag that said COSTA RICA on the side.  The famous marketbag, still in use today.

What I saw next would stay with me forever.

A Plethora of Produce

It was a burst of colors. Fruits and vegetables I’d never seen in my life, and a few things that I had. But, even the familiar looked different.

There were papayas the size of NFL footballs. We saw melons, tomatoes and carrots…but not like any carrots I’d ever seen. I found ears of corn already husked and being chopped in half by a man with a machete!

Papi appeared to know this man, and after what looked like an in-depth secret conversation, he paid him and threw a few misshapen ears into the market bag.

I even saw bunches of sticks that Papi told me were used to make a drink. Huh??

You’ll find almost everything you could want here.

Bananas (in large bunches right from the plant). Plantains, potatoes, tomatoes and onions. Seasonal fruits like rambutans, jocotes, pejibayes, guavas, cashew apples and malay apples.

There’s green coconuts, regular coconuts, blackberries and citrus of all types.

The air is filled with the aroma of fruits and cilantro.

The sights. The smells. The sounds. It’s a fiesta for the senses.

The Inside of Cartago’s Market

The market certainly doesn’t end with the outside vendors. Inside is a completely different world.

Open weekdays as well as weekends, the inside of Cartago’s Municipal Marketplace should not be missed.

Many tourists love the market, but it’s important to remember—this is as real as it gets. This is where locals shop and eat, too.

Set up like a crisscross of walkways inside, you could easily spend a couple of hours meandering up and down the aisles. You’ll find restaurants, butchers, cheese shops, additional produce, bakeries, shoe stores, granaries and even jewelry shops!

The butchers cut your meat to order in front of you. You can buy farm-fresh cheese, goat cheese and flats of eggs.

You’ll find shops that sell burlap sacks filled with dried goods: rice, beans and grains. Buy what you need by the kilo.

The same with pet food. It’s sold loosely so you buy what you need.

On my last trip to Cartago’s market, I found a great little store smack-dab in the middle of the market selling medicinal herbs. They have everything from eucalyptus to aloe. Something for everyone.

Continue on and see shoe stores, leather stores, pots and pans, and even some souvenirs. Best of all, in Cartago, tourists and visitors are largely left alone unlike larger areas and bazaars.

So, I don’t know about you, but all this shopping makes me hungry!

Restaurants in the Mercado.

If you’re in search of traditional Costa Rican food, do yourself a favor and have lunch at the marketplace. The food is homemade, it’s cheap and it’s delicious.

Seating arrangements consist of a counter where you get a front seat to cooking, banter and the latest gossip.

In Cartago’s market, I enjoy Soda El Macho, recommended to me by a friend that lives in Cartago. She’s been going there for years and invited me to lunch. Sooooo good.

Soda El Macho offers several combo lunches. I ordered my favorite, the classic “casado” (rice & beans, with plantain, salad and meat of choice) with soup, your choice of a natural fruit drink, plus a small dessert. The entire meal set me back about $5.00!

Macho and his staff are super-nice and will treat you like family.

Why You Should Go to the Mercado

If you’re really interested in learning more about Costa Rica, nothing tells the story quite like visiting places that locals go.

The Cartago market is about as genuine as it gets.

There’s countless places to try exciting food and drink, baked goods, and cheeses.

In addition, you have the chance to try almost every fruit you could ever want, and it’s all in one place.

Plus, you’ll be able to pick up a few souvenirs while you’re there.

Go and learn. Immerse yourself in the culture. People at the market are very gracious and anxious to share their customs.

Other Marketplaces in Costa Rica

Most cities in Costa Rica have their marketplace.

Other than the mercado in Alajuela, I’ve also been to the one in San Jose. It’s centrally located on Avenida Central, between Calles 6 and 8. You’ll find it more geared towards tourists, with tons of souvenirs for sale.

Cartago’s mercado is special to me because it’s like my home and because Cartago is off the beaten path. Her lush farmlands make it the perfect venue for selling the very best produce and dairy products.

Thirty-four Years Later

Over thirty years after the first time I set foot inside Cartago’s mercado, I feel exactly the same. The excitement and interest have not lessened.

But, time has passed.

Nearby businesses have come and gone around the market’s block. There’s now a McDonald’s near. And they’re selling a lot more lottery tickets these days.

And, people are now wandering the marketplace with cellphones in hand.

Luckily, the wonderful sights and sounds are the same.

The smell of cilantro still permeates the air. They still sell farm cheese, large trays of eggs, and old-fashioned kitchen wares.

Some of the businesses from 1984 are still thriving.

I’m so glad. It’s important they remain and keep the traditions alive.

For now, they’ve withstood the test of time.